Sweet return to the Smokies
Wildflowers in bloom in the Smokies
Woke up to the sound of rain on the shelter. But what better place to have to wake up to the rain than the Fontana “Hilton?” I grabbed my stuff in the dark and was able to pack up under the dry comfort of the Hilton’s eaves. I made it a whole 100 yards to the restroom at the Hilton, where I drank in luxury two cups of hot coffee (made with hot water from the faucet)!
I strolled out at 6 am for the road walk. I’m a little sketched about walking on a road in the dark as a little girl all alone, but didn’t see anyone about. I wasn’t sure where to get my permit for Smoky Mtn Ntl Park, but the coffee hit my system, and I headed towards the bathroom at the Visitor’s Center. At 6:30 am, they were locked, but in a desperate attempt to try out multiple bathroom door entrances, I found the permit station tucked away in the back.
Hikertrash breakfast
I’d been dreading the climb up Shuckstack Mtn–2000 feet straight of gain that I remembered as being never-ending from my 2008 thru-hike. I walked it with C-Bass and an older guy whose trailname was given to him decades ago by his best friend who died in Vietnam. We camped at Birch Spring Tent Site, where my hammock turned into a bathtub and I told myself I’d quit the AT if I had one more night like that. C-Bass’s positive attitude kept me going…and look at me now! This time, Shuckstack Mtn was super chill–I got to the top and was like: “Oh, I’m already here.” FYI–it’s a way harder climb on the BMT.
Grasslined path in the Smokies
Didn’t see anyone until I took an hour long break at Mollie’s Ridge Shelter and as I was leaving, Kentucky Greybeard (the ridgerunner) came by. He said he’d never heard of anyone making it to Mollie’s Ridge from Springer in 6 days before and he hadn’t heard of someone attempting to go from Fontana Dam to Siler’s Bald Shelter. I was quite touched.
Saw Jaybird and Booberry (?) from Gardinerville, NV—I used to drive through there on my way to Lee Vining all the time! They were super nice and I had a great chat with them and Blairfoot.
View of the distance mountain the Smokies
The weather was spectacular for photos on Thunder Mtn where Tin Man (hiking for heart charity) took my photo. The climb to Derrick Knob Shelter was totally ass kicking. I loved seeing it again (I stayed there in 2008 and had a fantastic time with Johnny Thunder and the Thundercats there—we hoofed it to a crazy night in Gatlinburg–what fun!)
On the way to Siler’s Bald Shelter, I met OWF and OWF’s Keeper—who are from Norfolk, CT and worked at Great Mountain Forest and had played beerpong with Star Childs (kind of the unofficial mascot of forestry school). What a small crazy world! We chatted about delicious New Haven food all the way to Siler’s Bald…where we ate our hiker food. A beautiful and rewarding day with great people. I really do think the Smokies bring hikers together…what a socially and ecologically beautiful place.
