Seattle urban Hike: Downtown
Day 2 was crazy! The highs and lows of the cities all captured in one spectacular day.
The day started by catching up with a few stairs I missed on Day 1. We also swung by the Goodwill where I picked up a Halloween costume…you have to just wait until tomorrow to see how that will turn out.
Then we met Vivian, a local ultra runner who befriended my friend Andrew (who introduced me to the Inman 300 back in 2013). Andrew came up to run Michael Yadrick’s 100k of the biggest stairs (100+ stairways) in Seattle and that’s where he met Vivian. Vivian is so knowledgeable about the city, specifically where one can find pastries. It was a joy having her join.
We had a little hiccup when we reached the Jackson stairs—a big 100+ stairway right along I-5 that joined with a greenway to connect to a road. As we walked up, the stairway was filled with trash and hypodermic needles…Our route was fenced off, but it looked like they left a path for pedestrians to get around construction when soon, we found ourselves in a construction site. We were confused where we were and just wanted to get to the street and then a guy came by in a big bulldozer and asked what we were doing there. Virgo, of course, has his camera with him, and this made the guy even angrier. We told him we just wanted out to the street, but he told us the way out was the way we came. This is, of course, while we’re like 100 yards from the street and can clearly see it. We turned around and then construction employees came after us, trying to get photos of us, presumably to show the cops.
We tried another way to the street, but the fence blocked our exit off 10 feet from the street. A construction guy, who was much friendlier, said there was nothing he could do but suggested we let the police know that they had blocked out a major pedestrian route. I was so angry that this quickly gentrifying city that takes so much pride in being bike and pedestrian friendly clearly doesn’t care enough to about pedestrians to create viable alternative routes (or open a fence 10 feet to create a pathway for pedestrians). They think just because the route is used by a lot of junkies that a pedestrian route isn’t worth keeping open. No, actually, it’s used by out-of-state tourists and documentarians trying to capture the life of the city! We certainly captured it as we returned from where we came, adding an extra mile to our route.
For many years, I had been looking forward to going to Seattle to see the Public Library. My best friend, who was trained as an architect, often says it is her favorite building. It didn’t disappoint. It was an atrium of light, space, and community. Actually, my first thought when I saw it was how much it looked like the mock-up buildings she designed in architecture school!
Michael Yadrick told me to stop by Top Pot, a famous donut chain in Seattle. The guys working the counter were super excited about the film. I was so hungry, I scarfed down my donut before Virgo could film he eating it, so I had to order (and eat) another donut to get it on film.
A true highlight of the trip was the beautiful Capitol Hill neighborhood and climbing to the top of the water tower in Capitol Park. Afterwards, we swung by the waterfront and through Amazon’s campus, where I met my friend Abigail, who works there.
It was back to downtown and into the tourist-famous part of Seattle—Pike Place Market, the Gum Wall, Post Alley. We grabbed humbow from a famous place in Pike Place market—excellent timing as we were starving by then.
It was amazing to see the city lit up and bustling. With no rain, everyone was out. I was reminded how urban hiking really shines when it comes to night hiking. Not only is it often easier, but the city gets a beauty of its own when the skyline is glowing. The Space Needle in particular looked cool in glow-mode.
We finished the day at Luna Sandals headquarters in Lower Queen Anne. Barefoot Ted, who was a major character in the book Born to Run, rolled up on his Solowheel, energetic, enthusiastic, and bigger than life. By that time, we were pretty exhausted, but he suggested going to Banya 5, a Russian-style bathhouse. We weren’t sure what Bayna 5 was, but figured we would roll with it. Showing up to Barefoot Ted’s is a little like hopping into Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. You don’t know what to expect, but you know it will be crazy and awesome.
His wife and super accomplished runner herself, Irem, joined us—also showing up on her Solowheel. We all hopped into Ted’s ’66 Volkswagen Beetle (a car I’ve never ridden in before), and rolled down the hill back to the neighborhood Amazon is in.
At first, the inside was super nice, upscale, and a little intimidating for hikertrash like myself. Ted was a pro and helped us navigate the front desk and got us loaner swimsuits.
We started by going in the sauna, where Ted introduced us to the regulars—people who come to the Banya everyday. Ted described it like Cheers minus the alcohol—and indeed, everyone seemed to get along. I knew that some of the people here were probably high up in tech companies: important people. But the Banya was not a place of ego. It was a place of going to cleanse yourself.
Which is where the cold part comes in. Ted led us to the ice pool, where he jumped in and dunked his head underwater for longer than I could hold my breath above water. Virgo and I slipped in more cautiously, and we both nearly started hyperventilating. Breathing was really hard and all I could think was “I don’t know htf Trauma swam around Lake Tahoe.”
As soon as we got out and back into the sauna, though, I felt rejuvenated. A challenge had presented itself and I was ready to try again and make the next time in the cold better. Barefoot Ted led us through a therapeutic cycle between the sauna, the cold pool, cold shower, a salt pool, Jacuzzi, and steam room. Then we took a break for the Banya’s awesome tea blend.
We left the Banya feeling tingly, energized, and excited like we’d just woken up. It was late and we had a long day, but I was ready for whatever the next adventure Ted was going to take us on. We went to late night happy hour at Long’s Vietnamese restaurant, which was incredible and fresh and was the first healthy food we’d had all day.
